Tree Care

Tips for Selecting, Planting and Caring for Trees

Tree Selection
Site Considerations

Available space above and below ground

Water availability

Drainage

Soil texture and pH

Sunlight levels/exposure

Weather and other environmental factors
Tree Considerations

Growth rate of the species selected

Mature size

Form

Hardiness ability of a plant to survive low temperatures

Heat tolerance and drought tolerance

Pest resistance

Maintenance issues

Native versus nonnative species
Selecting Trees at the Nursery

When you buy a high-quality tree correctly, plant and properly treat it. Both you and your tree will benefit for many years. When you buy a low-quality tree, you and your tree will have many costly problems, even if you take great care in planting and maintenance.

Things to Consider

Tree should appear healthy. No discolored bark, wilted leaves, etc.

Branches should be evenly spaced around the trunk

Trunk should taper from a solid base, gradually becoming more slender towards the top

Tree foliage and branches should be distributed on upper 2/3 of tree

Tree should contain a central, dominant leader

Tree should be free from mechanical damage

Tree should be free from insects and diseases

Roots should not be girdling, circling or pot-bound
Planting Tips
Remember to call 811 a few business days before digging to request the approximate location of buried utilities so you don’t unintentionally dig into an underground utility line.

Dig a hole 2-3 times the diameter of the root ball of the tree being planted and no deeper than the root ball. Use a shovel to measure the depth of your planting hole. When planted, the top of the root ball should be slightly above ground level. The root collar (flare) must be visible 1 inch above final grade after planting; trees planted too deep will drown.

For balled-and-burlap trees, remove the bottom portion of the wire basket. Slowly place the tree in the premeasured hole, being careful not to fracture the root ball. Remove the rest of the wire basket. Remove any remaining wire and twine, then peel back and remove as much of the burlap as possible. For large container trees, completely remove the container. It is important to remove the entire wire basket or container, as these materials can damage root development.

Set the root ball on solid ground in the hole and not on loose backfill; this eliminates settling.

After the root ball is in the hole, check to confirm that the root flare (the flare where the trunk meets the root) is visible. You may have to pull back some of the dirt from the root ball.

Backfill the hole with the original soil. Adding peat moss, manure or fertilizer to the soil in the planting hole is not necessary and not recommended. Too much added nutrients can cause a “potted tree” effect and restrict root growth.

Place mulch 3-4 inches deep and at least as wide as the planting hole, but do not mulch within 3-6 inches from the trunk of the tree. This will protect roots, hold soil moisture, reduce weed growth and provide a protective strip to eliminate mechanical damage from lawnmowers and weed-eaters. Porous landscape cloth may be placed between the soil and the mulch, but do not use plastic and do not bury the root flare. Keep grass and weeds out of mulched areas as they compete for the same water and nutrient resources as the new tree.

If necessary, stake the tree to keep the root ball from shifting in strong winds. The main tree stem must be able to sway. If it is too rigid, root and stem growth will be adversely affected.

Use wide straps to tie trees to stakes. Do not use wire, string, rope or rubber hose around a tree. These structures can girdle or “strangle” a growing tree.

Remove stakes and straps after roots are established, usually after one or two growing seasons.

Keep soil moist but not saturated. Irrigation is necessary, especially during the heat of summer (water in the early morning or at dusk) and in dry winters (take care not to freeze your pipes).

Optimal periods for planting trees in Colorado are spring (March 15 to June 15) and fall (Sept. 1 to Oct. 15), when outdoor temperatures are not so extreme.
Watering
Follow these recommendations to help establish your tree:

Water deeply and slowly. Apply water so it moistens the critical root zone (from near the trunk of the tree to the dripline) to a depth of 12 inches. Methods for watering include a deep root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand. Apply water to many locations under the dripline. If a deep root fork or needle is used, insert the device no deeper than eight inches into the soil.

Consistent moisture is essential. Maintaining consistent soil moisture allows for better root water absorption. Drought stressed or over-watered trees are more vulnerable to disease and insect infestations, as well as branch dieback.

Generally, a newly planted tree should be watered every three to five days during the growing season, depending on weather and soil conditions. Remember that newly planted trees also need water during dry periods in the winter months. Try to water at least once a month in the dormant season.

Use the following “rule of thumb” for applying the proper amount of water: apply 10 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter; for instance a one-inch tree will require 10 gallons of water each time it is watered. For mature trees 10 inches in diameter or more, apply 15 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter. Use a ruler to measure your tree’s diameter.

Mulch helps conserve and is critical to soil moisture. Apply organic mulch within the drip line, at a depth of three to four inches. It’s best to eliminate turf prior to adding mulch. Leave a six-inch space between the mulch and trunk of trees. Mulch materials may include wood chips, bark, leaves and evergreen needles.
Pruning
Limit Pruning of Newly Planted Trees

Remove torn or broken branches (save other pruning measures for the second or third year). Once the tree has established a good root system after planting (usually within 1 to 3 years), proper pruning is essential in developing a tree with a strong structure and desirable form.
For Most Young Trees, Maintain a Single Dominant Leader
Do not prune back the tip of this leader.
Do not allow secondary branches to outgrow the leader.
Sometimes, a tree will develop double leaders known as co-dominant stems. These can lead to structural weaknesses, so it is best to remove one while the tree is young.
A good structure of primary scaffold branches should be established while the tree is young. The scaffold branches provide the framework of the mature tree.
Location of Pruning

Location of a pruning cut is critical to a tree’s response in growth and wound closure.

Pruning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar. The branch collar contains trunk or parent branch tissues, and the tree will be harmed if you remove or damage it. If the cut is large, the tree may suffer permanent internal decay.
Do Not Top Your Trees!

Trees that have been topped may become unsightly and hazardous.

Avoid topping trees. Topping leads to:

Starvation

Shock

Insects and diseases

Weak limbs

Rapid new growth

Tree death

Ugliness

Increased maintenance costs
Insect Prevention

Because of transplanting, trees can be stressed, stressed trees attract and are much more prone to both disease and insects. Treating trees semiannually for the first two years after planting is recommended for preventing bark beetle problems. Also watch for other insects such as mites and treat accordingly
Guy Wires
Root Ball
Shedding
Additional Information
Contact your local tree expert for more information:

Local Community Tree Board

City Forester

City Parks Department

Arborist

Forestry Consultant

Tree Nursery

Colorado State University Extension

Your local CSFS forester

The CSFS and Colorado State University Extension offer publications that provide great tips on the selection, planting and care of trees and shrubs.

TREES NOT GIVEN PROPER CARE WILL VOID GUARANTEE.

Please use these links to educate yourself on proper tree care and maintenance to protect your investment.

The benefits of investing in mature pine trees are many! Colorado’s climate and growing conditions across the front range are perfect for adding big trees to your landscape. By adding mature pine trees to your property, you can increase the overall exterior appearance while increasing security by creating a barrier from both living creatures, noise, and prying eyes.

Buying and transplanting mature pine trees saves you the time, effort, and resources of growing trees from seedlings. You can have the finished product and enjoy your full-grown pine trees now, rather than waiting years for them to grow to maturity.

We don’t just have big trees for sale; we also specialize in transplanting mature pine trees across Colorado. We transplant our trees by using large spades that also water the trees as they plant them. This ensures that the root systems stay intact and that the trees do not go into shock as they grow into their new home. We boast a super high success rate for our translated pine trees.

Big pine trees come in a variety of options, such as Ponderosas and Blue Spruce. With any choice of evergreen tree, you get the benefit of having year-round greenery in your yard with little maintenance required. A perfect contrast in the winter when deciduous trees have lost their leaves.

Trust us for the sale and transplanting of mature pine trees here in Colorado. We do all the hard work so you can just sit back and enjoy your beautiful new landscaping.

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Tree Care

Tips for Selecting, Planting and Caring for Trees

Site Considerations

Tree Considerations

Selecting Trees at the Nursery

Things to Consider

Follow these recommendations to help establish your tree:

Limit Pruning of Newly Planted Trees

For Most Young Trees, Maintain a Single Dominant Leader

Location of Pruning

Do Not Top Your Trees!

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